Jenny Varley

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Tanzania and the Great Migration

We spent seventeen days in Tanzania travelling in turn to Tarangire National Park, the Ngorongoro crater, Ndutu in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and finally a week in the northern Serengeti, staying at a delightful mobile tented camp with access to the wildebeest crossings of the Mara River. We had some fantastic sightings including some very (but safe!) close encounters with lions, a caracal hunting, a delightfully photogenic cheetah family, and of course the spectacle of the Great Migration. We were fortunate that while we were in the northern Serengeti there were heavy rains to the south so the migration favoured us, and we passed seven days watching the drama. The spectacle of tens of thousands of animals gathering, milling around, starting to cross, deciding not to, then finally going was fascinating and we wondered what the triggers for the different behaviours were. Certainly the wildebeest could see the lurking crocodiles but the urge to reach fresh new grass was overwhelming and the herd instinct paramount. Most beasts succesfully cross but many drown, break limbs or are taken by crocodiles and it can make for harrowing but compelling viewing.

The trip was organised by Wildlife Worldwide and led by the super Nick Garbutt who was, as always, superbly professional, organised, helpful and also lovely company! Huge thanks also to Jombi Kivuyo and Joshua Monah for all their knowledge, help and excellent driving, and a special thanks to all the staff at the mobile tented camp.

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Playtime for the pups
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Playtime for the pups

Tanzaniandutuafrican wild dogafrican painted dogLycaon pictusdenwild dog denwild dog pups

  • Wildebeest walking in single file across the floor of the Ngorongoro crater
  • African wild dogs are endangered and their numbers are decreasing
  • The alpha pair of African wild dogs calling their pups out of the den
  • A subordinate female suckled the ten pups
  • African wild dogs are highly social and their greetings can be chaotic and noisy!
  • The last pup arrives to join his nine siblings in greeting their mother!
  • Playtime for the pups
  • Adults arriving to regurgitate food for the pups
  • The subordinate female on nursing duty again
  • That looked painful!
  • More puppy playtime!
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  • Members of the Ndutu Big Marsh pride heading to the swamp
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