Jenny Varley

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Tanzania and the Great Migration

We spent seventeen days in Tanzania travelling in turn to Tarangire National Park, the Ngorongoro crater, Ndutu in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and finally a week in the northern Serengeti, staying at a delightful mobile tented camp with access to the wildebeest crossings of the Mara River. We had some fantastic sightings including some very (but safe!) close encounters with lions, a caracal hunting, a delightfully photogenic cheetah family, and of course the spectacle of the Great Migration. We were fortunate that while we were in the northern Serengeti there were heavy rains to the south so the migration favoured us, and we passed seven days watching the drama. The spectacle of tens of thousands of animals gathering, milling around, starting to cross, deciding not to, then finally going was fascinating and we wondered what the triggers for the different behaviours were. Certainly the wildebeest could see the lurking crocodiles but the urge to reach fresh new grass was overwhelming and the herd instinct paramount. Most beasts succesfully cross but many drown, break limbs or are taken by crocodiles and it can make for harrowing but compelling viewing.

The trip was organised by Wildlife Worldwide and led by the super Nick Garbutt who was, as always, superbly professional, organised, helpful and also lovely company! Huge thanks also to Jombi Kivuyo and Joshua Monah for all their knowledge, help and excellent driving, and a special thanks to all the staff at the mobile tented camp.

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The lucky ones have made it without breaking bones, being swept away in the current...
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The lucky ones have made it without breaking bones, being swept away in the current...

Tanzaniacommon wildebeestwildebeestmibrationmara riverriver crossingwestern whitebearded wildebeest

  • Then crossings become a truly manic event
  • Calves leap in after their mothers....
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  • Nearly reaching the safety of the far bank
  • You can see the terror in their eyes...
  • ...understandable terror because enormous Nile crocodiles lie in wait....
  • Dragging themselves ashore
  • The lucky ones have made it without breaking bones, being swept away in the current...
  • Or falling prey to the crocodiles.  This one did make it.....
  • ...this one was not so lucky
  • Every picture tells a story...
  • A narrow escape, you can see rake marks down its flank but it evaded the croc
  • The same croc immediately grabbed another calf and this one did not escape
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