Jenny Varley

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Tanzania and the Great Migration

We spent seventeen days in Tanzania travelling in turn to Tarangire National Park, the Ngorongoro crater, Ndutu in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and finally a week in the northern Serengeti, staying at a delightful mobile tented camp with access to the wildebeest crossings of the Mara River. We had some fantastic sightings including some very (but safe!) close encounters with lions, a caracal hunting, a delightfully photogenic cheetah family, and of course the spectacle of the Great Migration. We were fortunate that while we were in the northern Serengeti there were heavy rains to the south so the migration favoured us, and we passed seven days watching the drama. The spectacle of tens of thousands of animals gathering, milling around, starting to cross, deciding not to, then finally going was fascinating and we wondered what the triggers for the different behaviours were. Certainly the wildebeest could see the lurking crocodiles but the urge to reach fresh new grass was overwhelming and the herd instinct paramount. Most beasts succesfully cross but many drown, break limbs or are taken by crocodiles and it can make for harrowing but compelling viewing.

The trip was organised by Wildlife Worldwide and led by the super Nick Garbutt who was, as always, superbly professional, organised, helpful and also lovely company! Huge thanks also to Jombi Kivuyo and Joshua Monah for all their knowledge, help and excellent driving, and a special thanks to all the staff at the mobile tented camp.

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Family portrait
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Family portrait

TanzaniaNdutucheetahacinonyx jubatuscheetah cub

  • But still she watched
  • Greeting
  • Family portrait
  • We missed this female and her subadult cub catching this gazelle by just a minute or two
  • Pause...
  • Lion cubs on a kopje in the northern Serengeti
  • The kopjes provide an ideal place to rest and to look for prey
  • Untitled photo
  • Klipspringers warming up in the early morning sunshine
  • The kopjes provide an ideal environment for klipspringers
  • Leopards also thrive in the kopjes, with many hiding and vantage places
  • Untitled photo
  • Untitled photo
  • Tens of thousands of Western white-bearded wildebeest gathering to cross the Mara River
  • The crossing starts when a few individuals make the first move...
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