We spent two weeks in Patagonia, starting in the Torres del Paine National Park, on a trip organised by Wildlife Worldwide and led by the superb photographer and biologist, Nick Garbutt. The priority of the first week was to find and photograph pumas and we had permission to do so on the private grounds of the Estancia Laguna Amarga which meant that we could leave the roads and tracks and follow the cats on foot. This was all under the guidance of our excellent guide, Matias Ballarini and superb tracker, Jorge Cardenas. We were hoping to get some good views but the encounters far exceeded our wildest expectations. At the time of year we visited guanacos were giving birth to their calves which meant there was an abundant and relatively easy source of food for the pumas, and we saw pumas feasting although not the actual kills. Up to three-quarters of all guanaco calves fall prey to pumas. Our daily schedule was quite punishing with a 4:00am start to position ourselves where we would be able to view pumas while they were still active - they head off to sleep during the day and then do not become active again until mid-evening. Such an early start was also essential to get the best of any good sunrises, and we certainly saw some spectacular ones. After a period of rest during the day we headed out again to catch up with the pumas as they woke from their slumbers and once again headed off to hunt. We saw a total of sixteen different pumas, some quite distant but many close and active. There were many highlights but the stand-out ones were being able to spend four sessions with a puma family of mother and three cubs aged just over a year. The two male cubs were bigger than their mother; the female just a little smaller. They were still very much a family unit although they may not stay that way for much longer, and seeing them all together, whether sleeping or walking, was a huge privilege and would be hard to beat. Their territory was entirely within the estancia property with spectacular views of Lago Sarmiento and the surrounding lands ranging from marshy areas to areas of steppe and numerous smaller lakes.

The scenery in the Torres del Paine National Park is quite breathtaking, particularly at both ends of the day, and we saw amazing sunrises and sunsets. The second part of the trip was enjoyable but not as profitable for photography, with visits to the Eco-Camp on Isla Carlos III and the northern part of Tierra del Fuego.

Huge thanks to Matias and Jorge, as well as Cesar who carefully and considerately drove us around Patagonia, and of course the excellent Nick Garbutt who led us so well on this adventure, organising and helping us at all times.

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