Jenny Varley

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Kenya, Maasai Mara 2019

After four nights at Kicheche Bush Camp in the Olore Motorogi Conservancy we moved to a splendid bush house for a further sixteen nights, Topi House, run by Asilia Africa. The house was superb and allowed us to have easy access to the Mara National Reserve as well as several Conservancies. The wildlife sightings were outstanding with fantastic experiences with lions, leopards, cheetah, servals, foxes, hyenas and many other typical African mammals and birds. There were many, many highlights but one which stands out was seeing a lioness with four of the tiniest cubs our guides had even seen. They were less than a week old and their eyes were still closed, and we witnessed the mother gently move them to a new den site after they had been disturbed my marauding hippos. Other great experiences were with two different lion prides both with many subadults, and we saw them playing with each other as well as with sticks and tufts of grass. We saw many different facets of the characters of hyenas; as vicious predators trying to take down zebra or snatch new-born buffalo calves, as scavengers at kills risking the wrath of lions, as tender mothers and as frolicsome animals as they played together in water. Their cackling laughter and whoops frequently kept us awake at night though!

The staff as Topi House were absolutely brilliant. Fred and Martin were amazing and hugely knowledgeable guides and seemed to know every blade of grass and bush! Mpatinga was an unbelievable spotter, able to see things by eye which we could not see even through binoculars! Isaac cooked us superb meals and James and Kileya tended us superbly, aided by several back room staff. Finally thanks to Michele Seamark at Safari Consultants for putting together such a fantastic trip.

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Adult bat-eared foxes near their den.  They are monogamous and mate for life
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Adult bat-eared foxes near their den. They are monogamous and mate for life

bat eared foxOtocyon megalotisafricakenyamaasai maramasai maraNational Reserve

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  • The mother and two cubs moved on to a termite mound to scan for prey
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  • The third cub joined them
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  • Two male cheetah hunting, unsuccessfully,  in Mara North
  • A favourite lookout tree for this male cheetah
  • Eland are the largest African antelope but surprisingly skittish
  • A subadult bat-eared fox searching for insects in the early evening
  • Adult bat-eared foxes near their den.  They are monogamous and mate for life
  • For all their justified reputation as ferocious predators, hyenas are gentle mothers, giving birth to usually two cubs.
  • Hyenas can also be remarkably playful and we watched a group of a dozen or more playing in a small watercourse
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  • This hyena was proud of its trophy - a wildebeest skull!
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