Jenny Varley

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Antarctica 2020

We spent nearly a month sailing in Antarctica in January 2020. We avoided the dreaded Drake Passage by flying from Punta Arenas to King George Island in the South Shetlands, and boarded the wonderful Ocean Tramp, a 66-foot ketch with just six passengers and three crew. After thirteen nights on board we transferred to the Hans Hansson, still small at 85 feet, but a hardy boat originally built as a life-saving vessel and with just twelve passengers and six crew. Sailing in both vessels was idyllic, allowing landings with few people ashore at any one time. We had some tough weather which was to be expected, but many spectactular wildlife encounters as well as awesome scenery and majestic icebergs.

There are very strict guidelines about approaching wildlife, but at times the wildlife approached us, and at the Chilean Gonzales Videla base Gentoo Penguins have chosen to nest immediatey next to the concrete walkways, allowing very close encounters with Gentoos and their chicks. Apart from this at all times we willingly obeyed the minimum distance rules.

Our outstanding guide on both boats was Daisy Gilardini, a superb photographer who shared her knowledge and expertise (and sense of humour) with great generosity throughout. Daisy was joined on the Hans Hansson by Justin Black from Visionary Wild who also brought photographic exertise, particularly for landscapes. The trip was superbly organised through Visionary Wild who had chartered both vessels from Quixote Expeditions, a very professional company founded and run by Fede and Laura - thank you both. The crews on both boats were absolutely first rate, Damian, Niall and Lucy on the Ocean Tramp, and Eugenio, Jarrad, Nico, Ernesto, Oli and Tom on the Hans Hansson. Thank you all for making our Antarctic adventure so amazing and memorable.

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One of these Adelie chicks was already learning the value of stones!
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One of these Adelie chicks was already learning the value of stones!

AntarcticaAntarctic peninsulapenguinAdelie penguinPygoscelis adeliaechickpenguin chick

  • Braving high winds on D'Hainaut Island
  • Stones are valuable as nesting material, and males present them proudly to their partners
  • Ritual greetings
  • Humpback Whales in Wilhelmina Bay
  • A Humpback Whale fluking in the Errera Channel
  • Bubble-feeding Humpback Whales in the Errera Channel
  • Orca in Butler Passage, three of a pod of over fifteen (the calf is underneath its mother)
  • Adelie Penguins are one of only two true Antarctic penguins and they are feisty characters
  • Framed by ice
  • Dwarfed by the massive sculptured iceberg
  • At home on the ice
  • Best foot forward?
  • Tobogganing is the fastest way of travelling on ice
  • Now what shall I do with this.....
  • One of these Adelie chicks was already learning the value of stones!
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