Jenny Varley

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Antarctica 2020

We spent nearly a month sailing in Antarctica in January 2020. We avoided the dreaded Drake Passage by flying from Punta Arenas to King George Island in the South Shetlands, and boarded the wonderful Ocean Tramp, a 66-foot ketch with just six passengers and three crew. After thirteen nights on board we transferred to the Hans Hansson, still small at 85 feet, but a hardy boat originally built as a life-saving vessel and with just twelve passengers and six crew. Sailing in both vessels was idyllic, allowing landings with few people ashore at any one time. We had some tough weather which was to be expected, but many spectactular wildlife encounters as well as awesome scenery and majestic icebergs.

There are very strict guidelines about approaching wildlife, but at times the wildlife approached us, and at the Chilean Gonzales Videla base Gentoo Penguins have chosen to nest immediatey next to the concrete walkways, allowing very close encounters with Gentoos and their chicks. Apart from this at all times we willingly obeyed the minimum distance rules.

Our outstanding guide on both boats was Daisy Gilardini, a superb photographer who shared her knowledge and expertise (and sense of humour) with great generosity throughout. Daisy was joined on the Hans Hansson by Justin Black from Visionary Wild who also brought photographic exertise, particularly for landscapes. The trip was superbly organised through Visionary Wild who had chartered both vessels from Quixote Expeditions, a very professional company founded and run by Fede and Laura - thank you both. The crews on both boats were absolutely first rate, Damian, Niall and Lucy on the Ocean Tramp, and Eugenio, Jarrad, Nico, Ernesto, Oli and Tom on the Hans Hansson. Thank you all for making our Antarctic adventure so amazing and memorable.

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Weddell Seal portrait
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Weddell Seal portrait

AntarcticaAntarctic peninsulaWeddell SealLeptonychotes weddellii

  • Crabeater Seals are the most numerous seals in Antarctic waters, and indeed in the world
  • A Crabeater Seal breathing out near sculptured ice in the Yalour Islands
  • Curious Crabeater Seal
  • A lone Macaroni Penguin amongst the Chinstraps at Hannah Point
  • Untitled photo
  • That Monday morning feeling?  A young Weddell Seal on Half Moon Island
  • Untitled photo
  • Weddell Seal portrait
  • A Weddell Seal hauled out at Dorian Bay
  • There had been a major calving which almost blocked the Lemaire Channel
  • On the way to the iceberg graveyard
  • Sensational icy scenes in the iceberg graveyard near Pleneau Island
  • Iceberg panorama as the sun set in the iceberg graveyard - stitched images
  • Fantastical sculptured icebergs
  • A cloudy and atmospheric day in the iceberg graveyard 1
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